Comme des Garçons, the iconic Japanese fashion house founded by Rei Kawakubo in Tokyo in 1969, stands as one of the most influential and Comme Des Garcon revolutionary forces in contemporary high fashion. The brand, whose name translates to “Like Boys” in French, has consistently challenged conventional notions of beauty, proportion, and wearability throughout its five-decade history.
## The Visionary Behind the Brand
Rei Kawakubo, a figure as enigmatic as her designs, studied fine arts and literature before becoming self-taught in fashion. Her lack of formal training perhaps freed her from the constraints that typically govern fashion design, allowing her to approach clothing from a purely conceptual standpoint. Kawakubo’s vision has always been centered around challenging norms—whether through deconstruction, asymmetry, or the deliberate inclusion of “imperfections” that she considers beautiful.
## Aesthetic Philosophy
Comme des Garçons’ aesthetic is immediately recognizable yet difficult to define. The brand is known for its predominantly black color palette (though not exclusively), avant-garde silhouettes, and unconventional use of materials. Kawakubo has famously described her approach as creating “clothes that have never been made before.”
Key elements of the Comme des Garçons aesthetic include:
– Deconstruction: Taking apart traditional garment structures and reassembling them in unexpected ways
– Asymmetry: Deliberately unbalanced designs that challenge conventional proportions
– Imperfection: Celebrating unfinished edges, raw hems, and visible construction
– Volume: Playing with extreme proportions, either through exaggeration or reduction
– Androgyny: Blurring gender lines in clothing long before it became mainstream
## Impact on Fashion
Comme des Garçons’ influence on the fashion industry cannot be overstated. The brand’s 1981 Paris debut, which featured predominantly black garments with unfinished hems and asymmetrical cuts, sent shockwaves through the fashion establishment. Critics initially dismissed the collection as “Hiroshima chic,” but it ultimately paved the way for Japanese designers to gain international recognition.
The brand’s deconstructivist approach has influenced countless designers, from Martin Margiela to the Belgian Antwerp Six. More broadly, Comme des Garçons helped shift fashion away from the ostentatious luxury of the 1980s toward a more intellectual, conceptual approach that continues to resonate today.
## Business and Expansion
Despite its avant-garde reputation, Comme des Garçons has grown into a substantial business enterprise. The brand operates numerous diffusion lines, including Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons (the main line), Comme des Garçons Shirt, Comme des Garçons Homme (menswear), and Play Comme des Garçons (known for its heart logo).
The company has also expanded into retail, with its Dover Street Market concept stores in major fashion capitals including Tokyo, London, New York, Beijing, and Singapore. These carefully curated spaces embody Kawakubo’s vision of “beautiful chaos,” bringing together Comme des Garçons’ own collections with those of emerging and established designers she admires.
## Collaborations and Cultural Influence
Comme des Garçons has engaged in numerous high-profile collaborations that have brought its aesthetic to a wider audience. Partnerships with brands like Nike, Converse, and Supreme have made the brand more accessible, while collections with Louis Vuitton and Chrome Hearts have reinforced its luxury credentials.
The brand’s cultural impact extends beyond fashion. Kawakubo has designed costumes for Merce Cunningham’s dance company, and Comme des Garçons has been the subject of numerous museum exhibitions, including a major retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2017 curated by Andrew Bolton.
## Legacy and Continuing Relevance
More than fifty years after its founding, Comme des Garçons remains at the forefront of fashion innovation. Each season, Kawakubo continues to challenge herself and her audience, exploring new themes and concepts that defy easy categorization. Her commitment to creativity over commercialism has preserved the brand’s integrity while ensuring its continued relevance.
Comme des Garçons stands as a testament to the power of vision and conviction in fashion. In an industry often driven by trends and commercial considerations, Rei Kawakubo’s unwavering commitment to her artistic vision has created not just a clothing brand, but a cultural institution that continues to inspire and provoke.
